The city, the ruins east and south of it, the cenotes underneath it and
the flamingo coast on either side. Every photograph here was taken by one of the operators
who run these days, in the places those days actually go.
One of the barrio churches that gave Mérida the name la Ciudad BlancaThe lunch counters inside the market, which is where the food walks eatCochinita pibil with pickled red onion — the dish the whole region is known forA table laid for a cooking class: the salsas come out before anything else doesLunch at the cenotes, included on most of the swimming daysEl Castillo at Chichén Itzá, 30 metres of it, on 120 kilometres of flat limestoneThe same pyramid from the plaza, with a person in shot for the scale of itThe Group of a Thousand Columns, which most day trips walk straight pastThe Pyramid of the Magician — the only Maya pyramid built with rounded sidesUxmal from above: the quadrangles are the point here, not one pyramidThe Governor's Palace, 100 metres of Puuc mosaic on a raised platformChoco-Story, across the road from the Uxmal gateKabah, twenty minutes further down the Puuc route and almost emptyThe corbelled arch: no keystone, no true arch, and it has held since the 900sCenote Suytún and its stone platform, the most photographed cenote in the YucatánA column that took the roof's whole weight before anyone was here to see itGet there first and the platform is yours; get there at eleven and it is a queueA collapsed roof, a tree in the gap, and roots all the way down to the waterAn open cenote at Homún, timber stair and allClear enough that the floor reads as shallow when it is notBelow the surface: the same fresh water that runs under the whole peninsulaA private cenote near Izamal, which is what a small group buys youFlamingos at Celestún — in numbers from mid-November, patchy the rest of the yearThe flock feeding: heads down, filtering the shallowsThe Ría Celestún, a biosphere reserve rather than a bird parkThe mangrove channel the boats run up, out of the windLas Coloradas: a working salt operation, and the pink is the brine shrimp in itPink water on one side of the bank, the Gulf on the otherThe boardwalk: you look at the water, you do not get into it
Go and see it
Every day trip and food walk out of the city, with the price, the length and what the fare covers.
The white church is a Mérida barrio church, five minutes from the
Plaza Grande; the market aisle is one of the three the food
walks cross, and the plate of cochinita pibil came off one of its counters. Everything with a pyramid in it is either Chichén Itzá, two
hours east, or Uxmal and Kabah, an hour and a quarter south. The cenotes are at
Homún, Valladolid and Santa Bárbara, and the pink water is Las Coloradas, on
the north coast three and a half hours away. The
map and distances page puts all of them in order.